Golden Staircase, pitches 9, 10, & 11

This is part of a much longer route called The Golden Staircase. The first four pitches are found in the Woodstone and Half and Half formation route descriptions.

Pitch 1: face climb up to a small overhang at 50 feet with a short, right-facing dihedral above that, 5.11,- chains at 30 meters.

Pitch 2: moderate climbing takes you to a steep, red headwall (all the best climbing at the Crags is on the red rock, IMHO). There are chains at 35 meters, 5.11.

You can rap in two rappels (a 70 meter rope is advised) back to your pack for a great two pitch climb, or continue the greatness by scrambling south over the top to a rappel station. Rappel into the notch to a flat spot and anchors on the opposite wall below a third pitch.

Pitch 3: a steepening wall takes you to more red rock, the top, and an anchor in 80 feet (2 bolts, no chains). It is a bit contrived at the top but a fun contrivance nevertheless, 5.11.

Scramble into the gully/slot just to the south, and carefully downclimb (or belay) to a rappel anchor approximately 35 feet down the slot.

Rappel to the bottom of the Upper Great Face.

Walk a short distance downhill back to your packs.

The first route you come to on the north-facing wall of the alcove is a Scott Kimball route with bolts up high and a trad second pitch (reportedly 5.10). Golden Staircase is 25 feet to the left with a line of new shiny bolts heading up to a small overhang and short, right-facing dihedral above.

You get very cool positions on this climb, particularly if you do the third pitch.

We took 15 draws and two shoulder runners. A 70 meter rope is advisable if climbing only the first two pitches.