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Peak Mountain 3

Mojo Rising

FA Jim Beyer- solo
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The route climbs 3 pitches above the Goblet.

Pitch 1 70'  climb or 3rd class to the top of the Goblet.

Pitch 2  150' .9  Belay at bolts on top of the Goblet. Traverse R to the end of the ledge- a L facing corner with an old bolt. Climb to the top of the L facing corner ( optional 1 1/4" cam) to a bolt. Climb past 5 bolts (.9) (purple fixe hangers) to a small L facing corner/seam with a good fixed head. Go L then up (.8) to bolted belay or go up and R then L (.8- ) to belay ledge.

Pitch 3  110' .11a  Go up 4 bolts (.10). The crux is above. At the horizontal crack ( nuts 1/8" to 1/2" ) go up ez ledges to 6th bolt then .9 to tiny belay stance with 2 bolts.

Pitch 4 80' .11b  With 8 bolts and good rests - this pitch is safe and good fun. It is sustained  .10c to .11a cruxes. The technical crux is .11a friction and the route crux is freeclimbing to the top of the pitch without falling or cheating.

The route was put in onsight and , like all my routes, ground up with a hand drill. Every pitch is quality, sustained micro flake edging on top quality rock.

Location

Above the Goblet on the Apron

Protection

bolts and small nuts