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Peak Mountain 3

No Questa About It

FA Dave Baltz, Bruce Doeren, Mark Dalen summer 1978
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This 3-pitch moderate is the first route done on the crag. Climbed on an off day while working on Johnny Questa in the summer of 1978, No Questa features fun sections of knobby face & finger to hand-size crack climbing.P1: Climb a steep dihedral/trough (5.8) then wander up ledges to a shelf of trees.P2: A short steep hand crack in the left wall (5.9) leads out on the flake. Traverse on handrail & chickenheads then climb cracks & knobs to a groove (5.7) that ends on the broad sloping ledge beneath the final headwall.P3: Climb straight in finger & hand crack (5.7 or 8), cross the arete & run it out & off right.Descent: Either traverse off right to the descent gully/talus slope (may involve a tree rappel) or continue up Questa Flatiron Original Route to the top of the formation (requires 30' rappel).

Location

Route begins at the toe of the buttress on the east side. The first pitch aims for a horizontal flake visible a hundred or so feet off the ground before heading straight up the arete, finishing with a jamcrack & airy traverse.

Protection

Route was climbed using 50 meter ropes & hexcentrics. No fixed pro, none needed.  Although a number of bolted anchors have sprouted along this route, these belong to climbs that flank both sides of the Legs formation & should not mislead as to where NQAI goes ...