Harvard and Columbia Traverse (Bypass)

This is a 3rd Class bypass I found for the Mt. Harvard and Mt. Columbia Traverse that does not involve dropping all the way in the basin above Frenchman Creek, as the standard hiker’s traverse does. You actually don’t have to stray very far from the ridge crest, and the route finding is fairly simple. I will be describing it from Columbia to Harvard, but it can be done in either direction.

To start this traverse, descend Mount Columbia’s north ridge until you reach the two prominent “rabbit ears” on the connecting ridge. Bypass the rabbit ears on the left (west) side via a long ramp filled with scree. After passing the cliffs on the end of this ramp, scramble along the ridge crest (easy 3rd) until you reach a steep, 3rd Class gully on your right side, just before the ridge narrows into an exposed knife edge. Carefully descend this gully (it’s a bit loose) until you reach a long, flat area that follows the crest of the ridge. All you have to do now is follow this ramp until the terrain eases, and you can gain the ridge crest. From here, it is exposed 3rd Class (with more difficult options) to the summit of Mt. Harvard. This section is the crux if you are taking this line. Some route finding skill may be helpful to keep the difficulty at Class 3, but you only have a few towers to negotiate before you meet the trail for the standard traverse.

This is the ridge to the north of the summit of Mount Columbia connecting it to Harvard.

Pro would probably be a hassle.