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The sustained, slightly overhanging nature of this shortie route will keep you wide awake. Sustained moves on generally good holds on steep rock keep you pumped as you aim for not-quite-as-good-as-they-look scoops and dishes on the steep face to a neat little tufa-like pinch. Finish on lower-angle, licheny rock past one more bolt to the anchors.
Short and full value. Likely 11+ or so for taller climbers. A bit more difficult for shorties.
Location
The center route at the Sleeper. Shares anchors with Nocturnal Urinator to the right.
Protection
Six bolts to chains with steel lowering biners
Routes in Sleeper
- 2Hypnagogic Jerk5.11dSport