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Peak Mountain 3

You Do You

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Description

A fun new favorite way up in to The Wedge, it climbs from the lowest point of the wall, up onto and across the Officer's Club Ledge, and on up to Not So Grassy Ledge.

Can be climbed in one, two, or three pitches, I'll describe it in the two pitches I recommend.

The route begins at the lowest point of the wall, just above where the approach trail first comes nearest the wall, see the beta photo and watch for the starting 8' tall broken hand crack.

One #1 and one #2 size Camalots recommended, usable on each pitch.

Pitch One: 40' 5.8

Jam the crack (a wrap or two of tape is your friend, left hand), chimney/stem above, passing two bolts above onto the ledge, two belay bolts.

Pitch Two: 60' to Officer's Club 5.10b, or 135' on to Not So Grassy Ledge 5.6

Climb the 3 bolts visible above the belay (.10b) onto the nice ledge stance (it makes for a nice location to short haul each others packs up onto the stance, leave hers clipped to the #2, and take off with mine). Continue up the hand crack for 30' and onto the 3rd class ledge system of The Officer's Club.

A row of boulders above should make you step right to get around behind them.

A bolted wide crack in white rock climbs above the boulder belay and into the second pitch of Supply Line (5.6), finishing on Not So Grassy Ledge.

Protection

One #1 and one #2 size Camalots recommended, usable on each pitch.


Routes in Bottom Center of The Wedge