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Description
The second pitch is for sure of the money pitch but the first pitch of this is still very exciting, definitely a Cochise adventure climb! 1st pitch Stemming off the boulder at the start of the route clip an old ass bolt, through some committing thin moves, move upward and to the right around the right facing dihedral (clip another shitty bolt) Then back left once on top of that, setting up a gear anchor of handpieces I think I used a 3 and 2 and called it good!2nd pitch In the guidebook it says step left around the pillar and getting into cracks, above that lead to a groove with a boltWe did a variation going right around the pillar leads you to the same place tho I wish I went left looks alittle cleaner Once at the nice bolt up and right through the grove probably the crux clip another shit bolt after that top out! I set up a gear anchor in the crack just before the summit hand pieces 1,2,3 can all find a home there! Summit and find anchors on the south-ish clean face down Can rap in two pulls with a 70 Tho there are 3 anchors so you could come off with a 60
Protection
Singles rack of .3-4 and Gear anchors 1-3 so bring doubles in these sizes
Routes in Buzzards Roost
- 1Trail of my fears5.9Trad