- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a fun bolted line to the right of Mystery of the Desert. The climbing is mostly slab and a few tricky stemming face moves.
Pitch 1 (5.9, 70')- Easy slab climbing straight up the bolts to the two bolt anchor. The crux is just after the first bolt.
Pitch 2 (5.10a, 80')- Follow the bolt line up and right from the anchor. The crux involves interesting face and stem moves to negotiate an angled bulge. Staying low when traversing to this bulge helps, as well as utilizing small holds to the right of the bulge. Continue up and left to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.10a/b, 90') - climb up and right following more bolts. Enter a short oval dish-shaped feature and figure out the clever stemming moves. Exit this feature and stay right of the bolt line as you climb to another two bolt anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.6R, 85') - follow the jagged arete to up and slightly left to a tree at the summit. You will find a two bolt anchor directly underneath it. The climbing is easy but protection is a bit scarce in the beginning of the pitch.
Descend by rapping the route.
A topo for this route can be downloaded from
toofasttopos.com/free/
Location
Start on bolts approx 5' right of Mystery of the Desert.
Protection
All bolts except for the final pitch. A small rack of cams and a single set of stoppers is easily sufficient to protect the final pitch.
Routes in The Muttonhead
- 3Tour Buses Welcome5.10Sport