- Edit (TBD)
Description
A great route with a weird start and finish. The start is soft and a little scary as you yard on a huge flake. A left facing corner with mostly 1s turns into a right facing corner with mostly 1s until it turns to fingers with some helpful features. Get a no-hands rest and enjoy the thoughtful poddy fingers splitter. It seams out about a body length from the chains, requiring some delicate face moves with gear at your feet and 40 meters of rope tugging at your belay loop.
An 80m rope will not get you down! Luckily we had an extra rope for Seoul Games. My uncut, true 80 got me about 20-30 feet off the ground, so the route is approximately 150ft.
Location
The farthest right route on the wall.
Protection
All the 1s you have. I have small hands and ran it out and still placed five. (Nine would not be unreasonable.) I was happy with two 2s, and four of each from .3 to .75, but those with bigger hands might want more .75s. Bring two ropes or a tag line.