The South Face

Pitch 1. Begin in the middle of the south face of the tower, climbing up to a hangerless bolt at 20 feet (5.4). From here, wander up and left to a deep slot where you'll (hopefully) find two pins in questionable rock. These pins don't look good, so don't plan on falling on them. From here, traverse back left to the end of the slot, and climb up on huecos (5.6). Depending on exactly how you do this, you may be able to slot a medium cam in the horizontal slot at your feet. Continue climbing up and left until you gain the ridge, then climb straight up the ridge (5.8) to a drilled pin (which actually may be good), conveniently located just after the crux moves. Mantel onto the prominent ledge just below the summit on the west ridge, and sit in the hole to belay.

Pitch 2. Continue east along the ledge until you can climb up through the large notch in the middle of the summit block on the south side (5.5).

Descent: there is a summit anchor, some old pins which were backed up in 1998 with more bad pins. Your best bet is to simul-rappel.

Gear: long slings, a medium cam or two, a nut (for the hangerless bolt), and a couple of quickdraws. A couple of baby pitons or LAs might be used, but they probably won't hold much of anything.