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Description
This climb carries a ton of climbing in a short span. It starts beneath a black water streak and veers left after the forth bolt. It continues climbers right off the roof to the anchors.
The first crux is between the fourth and fifth bolt while coming out of the hole toward a ledge. At this ledge try to get it back because the red point crux starts here until clipping the eight bolt over the roof. The sixth bolt before the roof is a working bolt. During the red-point attempt, it is good just to skip it and save your energy (it makes for a fun and long whipper). We extended the bolt on the lip of the roof and it was very useful.
Both cruxes and the movement through the roof makes this route a must do in the area. It will take a lot of body tension and foot work.
Location
Left Side Wall climb left of I am the Eggplant
Protection
8 Bolts and 2 Bolt Anchors with steel carabiner
Routes in 2 - Shallow End
- 17Shit'n Cactus5.12cSport