- Edit (TBD)
Description
One of the top hard cracks of Rushmore but seldom visited. Even though it's roadside the approach pitch keeps people away (beware of poison ivy). There are a few options to gain the belay ledge. Originally you'd take one of two dihedrals directly to it, but now the better option may be to climb the first three bolts of 'Flowers and Trees' and come in from the left. From the natural belay ledge, climb up the right crack with a bit of stemming. Then take the obvious right angling crack. Crux hits you right away but then gives way to fun 5.10+ crack climbing. At cracks end, clip an old bolt (w/ a long sling) and traverse left across slab to the final steep cracks. Find a new bolted anchor on top.
Location
From the road and across from the admin parking, follow the cliff base uphill (W) for approximately 200'. Routes should be in view from here with a schist beginning. Double rope rappel! Or lower from Bees' anchors.
Protection
Micro - Large (double large fingers-hands) 1 bolt bolted chain anchor