Virgo

Adding this route for historical purposes. As written by James in the main page description this is an early route Mugs Stump established thus making it a significant ascent in my eyes. While it truly is a piss poor rock climb I really enjoyed this bomb as I have a soft spot for chossaneering. It’s a fun adventure or a great training simulator for Canadian Rockies choss. The only bolt on this route is the original which is a tiny, at the time I climbed it 45 year old , rusty little booger that you will climb 30’+ above before your next pro. The last solid cam before the bolt is another 20/30’ below. Bring a new bolt if you don’t like the sounds of this situation. The climbing isn’t difficult but you need to pay attention and tread lightly as a fall would be serious. I’m not going to do a pitch by pitch description of this route as you simply follow the same crack to the top. I suggest doing 100’ or so pitches as belays require some work to make safe and there is good bit of loose rock on this one. This route can be climbed in 4 or 5 pitches. The crux is on a face above a steep right facing corner. I went to the summit which adds 400’ or so of easy scrambling and hiked off but there are some pins that you could rap off if you wanted. They are still solid except the one I pulled out by hand. These pins are good indicators as to where to build anchors as well. Shelter the belay at all costs.

This is the obvious crack system that splits the wall left of Marbleous. The one to the right is Devils Den. Reference picture.

I had rack from 00-3 with doubles in 00, 0, .1, .75 and 1” cams as well as tricams black to blue. I also had a handful of ball nuts which I used and some small to medium offset nuts. I felt like I protected it to the best of my ability. This route could also be a good candidate for half ropes/unicore/thick rope due to rock fall and how sharp this rocks is.