Brass Junkie

This route starts from the top of Pitch 1 of '

Paul's Boutique

Pitch 1: Climb up and RIGHT from the anchor on easy rock to gain the first bolt. Continue past one more bolt, then fire up the thin crack/seam (crux) placing gear when available to gain the large comfortable belay ledge(the '5.10 ledge'). 90 feet, 5.10+.

(This pitch can also be started from the bolted anchor atop pitch 1 of

'The Big Steep'

, by climbing left to gain the first bolt)

Pitch 2: Locate a crack in the green/black stripe of lichen that shoots up the left side of the headwall (just left of '

The Hotness

'), and follow it for 60 feet. Another 40 feet of easy climbing leads up to a bolted ring anchor near the top of the wall(same anchor as for '

The Hotness

'). 100 feet, 5.9+.

Descent: From the top of pitch 3, lower or rappel with a 60 meter rope back to the large belay ledge (the '5.10 ledge'). Then rappel down to the base using the bolted chain anchors for '

The Big Steep

'.

'Brass Junkie' starts from the top of the first pitch of '

Paul's Boutique

' and climbs up and RIGHT from the belay to reach the first bolt.

Pitch 1: 'Paul's Boutique' start-Twelve bolts(long runners useful), bolted anchor; or 'The Big Steep' start-Eleven bolts, bolted anchor.

Pitch 2: Two bolts, Standard rack, including small wires. Gear anchor.

Pitch 3: Standard rack, including small wires,(one 4" to 4.5" inch cam is very useful). Bolted anchor.

Don't forget the brass.

60 meter rope mandatory. TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE!