Caught in the Act

This route ascends the weakness of Haystack's North Shoulder between Pika Alliteration and Flash Flood, providing another moderate outing for half-day adventures in the Deep Lake area (or some approach pitches to the North Face). It begins with a fun, ledgy L-facing corner which leads to three pitches of slabby R-facing corner climbing through several large ledge systems ( continually trending up and left). From the upper ledge, a high-quality 5.7 face and slab pitch (with good gear found throughout) leads an alcove belay below Pitch 5. From this alcove, there are two options: straight up a SPLITTER 5.9 crack through a small roof, or step right on a small ledge (approx. 15ft) to an obtuse L-facing corner that requires small gear and careful footwork. Both of these options lead to yet another large ledge, with a left-slanting finger crack slicing through the final slab to the top of the shoulder. Belay off boulders on the shoulder and walk off!

While the first three pitches are not high-quality (somewhat loose here and there), they can easily be simuled to get to the last three pitches, which provide good rock, fun movement, and a cool position.

Looking up Haystack's North Shoulder, there is a big dark cave at the base of the wall. This route begins just right of that cave in a ledgy L-facing corner. Approach up the boulders and grass and belay in grass right at the base.

Standard alpine double rack with some small gear recommended for the .8+ pitch.