- Edit (TBD)
EIN HEFTMACHINE!
Description
WHAT'S ON: Start with one hand pinching on the protruding rock toward the bottom of the wall, and the other hand on a small side crimp to the right of it. Then there is the pinch above the left starting hold, pocket above right starting hold, deep pocket to the left under the roof, side crimp immediately above that, pocket above and to the right of the last pocket and a crimp on the top roof edge. The crux is getting the two roof pockets. I marked the holds with chalk, so hopefully it's easier to find where I'm talking about
HOW I DID IT: I started with my left hand pinching on the protruding rock by having my hand facing left on it and getting my thumb on the very small notch in the middle of the right side of it for a little leverage, the other hand was on the small side crimp, my left foot was on the small ledge directly under the left starting hold, and my right foot was heel hooking the ridge to the right of the starting crimp. Then I moved my left hand and hammered down on the pinch, did a sort-of gaston to the upper pocket, rocked my heel hook to standing on my toe, switched feet so my left foot was where my right foot was and my right foot is flagging out to the right. Then I grabbed the deep pocket, walked my feet over to where my left foot was on the left ridge(chalk on it) and my right foot on the left starting hold as I grabbed the pinch above the deep pocket, then I did a small Dyno to grab the pocket above on the side of the middle roof with my left hand while I hammered down on the pinch with my right hand to slow the momentum, then grab the other roof pocket with my right hand, right when I have both hands in those pockets, I get my feet back on the wall, move my left hand to the finish crimp, and lastly move my right hand over to match the finish.
Location
Right before the ground slopes down toward the river, to the left of 'Threat Level Midnight'
Protection
2 pads works if you are willing to be a little risky, but would really recommend 3 if possible