- Edit (TBD)
Description
The major open book feature on the north side has a tight-hands to steep OW crack up it.
P1--Some thin moves and stemming off the ground lead to thin-hand jamming between pods with a slight right lean. A chimney pod with chockstones leads to a crux overhanging, left-leaning fistcrack with decent face features and a step left at the top. Belay off of anchors on a large ledge. The rock is pretty good Schnebly, although slightly crunchy still until it sees more traffic. A good, physical crack pitch. (5.10, 75')
P2--Walk right from the anchors and bust an awkward boulder problem over a silty, ringlock bulge to easier crack rambling. Delicately move up the crack past blocky ledges. The anchor is 10' below the summit for rock quality; summit carefully on loose, easy terrain. This potentially could be linked with P1, but drag may be an issue. (5.9, 25')
Rap or lower from top anchor to ledge and rap back to base from there. (1X) 60m rope will do.
Location
The very obvious major dihedral on the north side of the spire.
Protection
(1X) .4, .5, .75 (3X) #1 (2X) #2 #3, #4
Steel anchors