North Chimney

A beautiful tower, just a little ways up Butts. It offers a pretty straightforward outing, that is probably one of the most psychologically accessible of the area.

Scramble up the awkward cleft between the Butts Plug and the Proctologist's Finger from the east side, and belay below the obvious chimney separating the flying buttress from the main finger.

P1--Ramble up a hollow, soft, easy pillar feature to the first hole you get to tunnel through, work through this generous opening to the south face, and writhe up some flared OW to the second hole, which is much less expansive and leads back to the top of the massive block that is wedged in the lower portion of the chimney. If you runner-ed the gear well and were mindful of the ropeline, you should be ok to continue. Chimney up, using a hollow pillar on the south wall for jams and gear, to a bedding seam shelf and bolt. Burrow deeper into the chimney and negotiate some awkward moves out of the bombay shelf back into the chimney using some questionable jug features. Wriggle to the shoulder and a chained anchor on the Finger proper, with a directional drilled angle on the comfy shoulder ledge to belay from. (5.9+, 125')

P2--An 8 bolt ladder (with one sketchy piece--finger-sized, offsets or tricams possibly helpful-- in a wierd natural hole, could be stickclipped past) to free climbing up to the white-rock summit cap, and a couple of "fraid" moves using slightly questionable cams to the summit block itself and cold-shut anchors. Mantle up to the tippy-top, wondering how the actual summit block is still in place... (5.9, C2, 75')

Rap off twice with one 70m rope.

The chimney that divides the flying buttress from the Finger proper. Access from the east side.

In BD C4 sizes:

(2X) Red C3-.4

(1X) .5-#6

(1X) 70m rope