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Peak Mountain 3

Meadow and Spicer

FA Darryl Cramer, Nicola Masciandaro, Jon Nelson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 starts with a stick-clip (see stick lying nearby) to the first bolt. Either pull up on the rope to reach the ledge or do a short V2-3 (5.11c) sequence. From the ledge, follow the corner up to the roof (~10a), go over the roof (~10a/b), face climb up to the crack, and climb the wide crack (~8+/9) to a large, slightly downsloping ledge with a chained 2-bolt anchor.

P2 starts up the corner just above the anchor, and goes up to the crack above on the headwall. The crux move is about 5.8, getting into the crack. The crack, which is finger-sized with hand pods every few feet, goes to a nice flat ledge with a two-bolt chained anchor.

P3 goes up the short flake/corner system to the top (~5.6). There is no metallic anchor up here, just a bunch of trees. But the view and setting is wonderful.

Location

Follow trail rightward along base of wall to highest point. Look for the bolt about 12-feet up.

Protection

Small wired nuts to fist-sized cams. It's useful to have a small brass nut (e.g., RP #5) for the first piece off the ledge on P1.