Stankins

This line was previously done as a solid V11. But after a climber matched a thin hold after a rainstorm, the hold gave way and broke. Multiple times. The breakage left behind a slopey three-four finger gaston which is very difficult to power off of.

For those looking to try something very hard, other than "Dancing Queen" and "The Whole Shebang", sit-start on a decent crimp edge in front of the large rock. Pull on and move right hand up to a big gaston before firing up to the slopey left-hand gaston (the broken hold). From this hold, execute a very powerful left-hand bump move to a bad hold, or find the friction and lock it off and move righty up to the bad hold, before bumping to a sloping pinch. Match this pinch then dyno out left to a good hold. Once here topout on big holds direct or out right.

About fifteen feet left of "Riverdance" on the obvious chalked holds.

4 pads. There is a rock slab behind and to the left.