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Peak Mountain 3

Breaking Boundary

FA Mike Patz, 5/12/2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Breaking Boundary is an extension to the fantastic

Breaking Ben

. It entails two technical boulder problems separated from the

Breaking Ben

crux by an insecure, no-hands stance. While the crux finish may at first seem contrived, the rock is excellent, and the exposure unbelievable. The boundary is the imaginary line that separates the impeccable headwall from the roof above. I recommend not bailing to the chossy roof holds, but if you do, be prepared to clean them yourself and to earn fewer points for the send.

Location

Start by climbing most of

Breaking Ben

. At the 7th of

Breaking Ben’s

eight bolts, mantel up to take on the steep prow above. Trend slightly right from the initial stance to follow four bolts through the steep prow. Finally, commit to the line of strength traversing left across the headwall to top out the left arête. Clip the anchors at your right hip or knee once you have gained the jugs around the corner.

Protection

12 bolts + an anchor (7 bolts of

Breaking Ben

lead to 5 additional bolts for Breaking Boundary) +/- optional gear for the initial slab leading to

Breaking Ben

.