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Peak Mountain 3

Changing the Stripes

FA Jason Stevens & Virgil Ash
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1: From the starting platform, climb up and into a

crack system. Stay left of the crack/coner (5.5) and

top out on the bulge at the first anchor station (50’). 6 bolts

P2: Climb a long angle, faint arete to a couple of

vertical steps. A short patina face leads to a couple

more steps and the next anchor station (5.5). 7 bolts

P3: Continue up the arete, clip a long sling on the

last bolt and top out on a platform. Move right

to the left leaning ramp/arete a follow it up and

through the slot to the summit. (5.4). 8 bolts

Can rappel the route or rappel at Bayer's anchors which are accessed further up the ridge for less chance of ropes getting caught.

Location

Park at or near Anti-Gravity Rock (two

turns in the road below Box Canyon). Cross the creek

and stay left of a huge boulder and bush-whack

north up the draw. The vegetation is thick and there

is no trail as of 4.18.09. When you near some large

boulders on your right, move right and skirt the base

of the cliff. When “Heart Rock” comes into view above

you, climb a shallow gully on your left to a platform

roughly 30’ above the trees.

Protection

Bolts. Take long slings for the belay stations. A couple of long slings are helpful to reduce rope drag at the top of the pillar on P3.

You can do the entire route with one 60M rope. Sign the summit register!


Routes in Changing the Stripes Buttress


  1. 2
    Changing the Stripes
    5.4
    Sport