Said the Duchess to the Cardinal

This route meanders to the top of the East Buttress in 5 adventurous pitches. It begins near the middle of the 'cirque' near the big flat rock with cairns.

Pitch one climbs up the black streak with a hand traverse right to gain water grooves and a couple belay trees.

Pitch two heads straight up a nice corner with hand cracks and jugs to a large belay tree.

Pitch three heads up and left to a steeper part of the wall. Pass right of the overhanging blocks to find easier climbing to another large belay tree.

Pitch four meanders more or less straight up on loose and dirty rockaineering terrain. Belay at a funky tree that was the victim of some wicked lightning.

Pitch five heads up and left to an arete of sorts with a shallow dihedral to the top. This exposed finish is very fun and has stellar views.

Savor the summit of the East Buttress before descending or hike to the summit of Palisade Mountain for extra credit.

We rapped the route with double ropes and left webbing and links at every belay tree. Be careful of rockfall and getting the ropes stuck on the somewhat unpleasant rappels.

It is in the middle of the East Buttress near the flat rock with cairns. Look for the large, black streak angling up and right.

Generally good where the rock is good. Some sections can be run out, loose, or both. Be careful! Having said that, good gear can be had if you look for it.