Parkway

As Geir Hundal writes in his excellent guidebook, Toofast Topos 2, "A staggering line... that will challenge your strength and heart as much as nearly any route [in the Stronghold].... It packs in several rounds of stiff climbing, bold moves, and blistering exposure. This experience comes at a price: commitment and skill."I can't really add much to that. Major props to DDC for putting it up in his usual impeccable style and perhaps even bigger props to Geir and partners for boldly freeing it ground-up. I (in far less impressive style) had a small role in adding a short traverse pitch near the top in order to replace the pedestrian original finish (a 5.8 wide-hands crack) with a dramatic one up the last pitch of Ranch Hands. This adds more 5.11/5.11+ climbing to an already stacked route. I also belayed at a higher spot on the first pitch at what I felt to be a more logical stopping point. Incorporating these small tweaks brings Parkway, which was already a near-perfect rock climb, to perhaps its final and ideal form, and that is what is described here.Begin as per Ranch Hands at the lefthand edge of the main SW face of The Hand, beneath a long hand crack. About 80' up a series of slash-mark cracks lead leftwards from the top of the hand crack; this is a good identifying feature.P1 (5.12- R, 200'): Scramble into this crack from the left, climb it until it ends, then work left across the slash-marks to a steeper thin crack in a slight concavity. Follow this upwards until just before the angle abruptly eases. Instead of relief, you are about to crank the volume up to 11: Locate a lone bolt around the corner, make a reachy clip, and commit to the steep, blank prow of The Hand. Thin hold wizardry will get you through the crux, and then increasingly better holds will lure you further and further from the bolt. A tricky knob tie-off is the only thing that will keep you from a life-altering/ending fall if you blow it up high, so take your time with this. Easier slab leads to another dramatic transition right to some thankfully juggy terrain and reliable pro. The original pitch ended a short distance higher at a stance on a large horizontal dike, but I recommend continuing upwards on moderate terrain, making a final step right between two giant scoops, and belaying in the second at a bolted anchor. To save yourself a lot of grief, consider back-cleaning the first 80' or so of hand crack and well-runnering your pro.P2 (5.11-, 40'): Move up out of the pod on some initially crumbly rock, then work leftwards past a bolt which protects a cruxy step-down move to the next crack system. Belay immediately with large stoppers or finger-sized cams in a strange protrusion that is split by two cracks.P3 (5.12- PG13, 140'): Climb straight up off the belay. Two bolts protect an exquisite stemming sequence which is the technical crux of the pitch. Above, protect high and once again work left and slightly downwards to the next crack system. The initial bit of this crack is non-trivial and poorly protected (best not to fall unless you were just so stoked on the crux stemming corner that you want to be swiftly and violently reunited with it). Continue until the crack ends and execute a wild sequence working up and right to a slab - only pausing to savor the ridiculous exposure in this particular location and perhaps to clip the bolt found here. Pad upwards to a right-facing groove/crack, and finish with a memorable final move onto a giant horizontal dike. An anchor can be built with finger-sized cams.P4 (5.11-, 30'): Traverse straight left on the dike passing a wide-hands crack (this is Parkway's original finish), protect, and continue around to the shady, NW aspect of The Hand. A bolt protects a thin crux move to the bolted anchor below the final pitch of Ranch Hands.P5 (5.11+, 75'): Climb an amazing finger crack and incut plates to a final giant chickenhead. Clip a bolt and perform a devious stand-up move to get to easier ground. Belay in a bowl near the top of the formation from slung chickenheads and finger-sized cams. To descend: 4th class down to the south about 20' to access a bolted rap anchor. This is hidden just below a large dike. A series of double-rope raps down the way you came will get you to the ground. Note that the terrain you just climbed is so bewildering that you should pay extra attention as these anchors, which are both on- and off-route, can be hard to spot from above.

Left edge of the main SW aspect of The Hand.

All sizes listed in Camalots:3x 0.1 to 0.3 or equivalent. 2x 0.4 to 0.75 or equivalent. 1x #1. 1x #2, #3 (both optional but recommended your first time on route). A light set of stoppers & brass. Many slings and a few draws. Two ropes.