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Mothmonsterman
Description
A phenomenal long, pumpy route on nearly perfect rock. Crimp your way up fantastic blue stone that gradually builds to the first crux getting to the eighth bolt. Something like 12c/d to here. Next, traverse left on jugs past another bolt. Make sure to milk the rest here and prepare for another tricky 4 bolt 12c/d. Mantel out the top of the hard climbing and try to prepare your feet for the final 3 bolt 5.11 slab climbing to the anchor. Seriously good climbing on seriously good rock. Seriously.
Location
From the top of the trail, head left about a hundred feet. This route and Blue Veil both start on the beautiful blue streak just before the 40 foot chossy pillar that is part of the wall. Blue Veil heads straight up, Mothmonsterman bust out left after the eighth bolt.
Protection
17 bolts to clip and lower anchor. Shares the first 8 bolts with Blue Veil. I'm not sure it was necessary but I placed long draws on bolts 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11. Once you have the 9th bolt (the traverse) clipped, you can reach back and unclip the 8th. I didn't notice very much rope drag with this method. Use a 70 meter rope!
Routes in South Jersey Shore
- 13Mothmonsterman5.13aSport