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Peak Mountain 3

The Wafer

FA Ed Webster, Chester Dreiman, 1983
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route climbs the South face to the East ridge and ascends the ridge to the summit. The rock is much more weathered than Moses, and there are some looser sections.

Pitch 1: Climb up ledges to dihedral facing rimrock then climb the offwidth past a bolt to a bolted belay ledge.

Variation: We climbed a difficult offwidth crack to the left leading to the same belay. Erica pulled a TV-sized block off getting to this offwidth.

Pitch 2: Face climb up the ridge past some drilled angles to a belay ledge with bolts. If you climb the 1st pitch variation you skip this pitch.

Pitch 3: A 5.10c move puts you on the ridge which leads up on easier rock past a drilled angle to the "plank ledge".

Pitch 4: Follow Ridge at 5.6 to the summit.

Variation: From anchors a little below the plank ledge belay, we traversed right and went across a very loose and sandy ramp up to the plank ledge. (not recommended)

Descent: Rappel the route. Note: According to the register, we were the 20th ascent of the tower on Jan 27th 2004.

Protection

1 set of cams, some stoppers, 1 #4.5 Camalot.


Routes in Aphrodite


  1. 1
    The Wafer
    5.10c
    Trad