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Peak Mountain 3

Tatooine

FA Joe French, Caleb Padgett, Zach Lee. Feb 2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Tatooine ascends the cracks up the next buttress left of Jolly Green Giant jam crack. this is an excellent and well equipped line that rarely accepts pro bigger than fists. there is a bivy for four atop pitch 5 on a spacious ledge. expect sustained 5.10 climbing interspersed with more challenging cruxes here and there.

15 pitches cruxes @ p1p2p9p12

P1(1&2 120')starts w/ 5.11 stem

P2continues up right to 5.11 fingers flake topped by 2 bolt anchor

P3-(100')5.11 hands for about 50' then 5.10 about 50'

P4-(60') 5.8 to a large tree on right side of ledge

P5(200') shimmy dihedral crack 5.8-5.9 to ledge w 3 trees finish pitch going left up 3rd class terrain to bolts and !bivy ledge for four to the right!

P6 5.10+ ("DesertTower" 2bolts pro) and ("Ghost" 2bolts pro) to 1 bolt

P7 a little after the 5th bolt on 5 switch cracks to the left into the 5.8 stem... finish w 2 bolt anchor

P8 (bottom of 8 to ledge 200')continue up to one bolt pro. then switch cracks to the right

P9 then 5.11 fingers to 5.9 face past 2 bolts pro

to 2 bolt anchor.

P10 traverse ledge right to 1 bolt pull overhang into corner system to thin fingers 5.10+ pass 1 bolt face climb to 2bolt anchor

p11 face climb past 2 bolts to 5.11 finger crack

p12 chimney up to leftward traverse into 5,6 chimney

P13 climb directly of belay into corner or out left to another crack system that leads to a ledge with 1 bolt to a 5.9 offwidth climb offwidth and chimney to ledge

P14 5.9 chimney to 2 bolt anchor

p15 go left of p14 anchor into wide chimney... 5.10 to large tree (165')

Location

Mt. Kinesava

Protection

3ea .5"-3"

2ea 3.5"

1ea 4"-4.5"

2 extra 1-1.5"

2 extra 3"

nuts

2ea 60m ropes (mandatory)