- Edit (TBD)
The Supercrack
Description
A stout roof-crack problem that has somehow escaped the popular radar. Back in the day, Bernd, assorted UCSB kids, and myself climbed on it, but for some reason it has fallen out of popularity. I remember Chris Broomell styling it back in 2006ish, but that's just when I first saw it. I have no idea who put this thing up. Bernd is the earliest ascentionist that I know of, but information to the contrary would be welcome.
Begin low with hands on funky off-fingers-underclingy-crack hold (that's a lot of hyphens). Paste feet on shelf. Interesting moves on pockets, edges, and tiny crimps get you to lip. Fire up and right to arete, and top out. There is a variation that goes out left of the lip, but I haven't tried it. Seems harder.
Location
You know Egret Arete? If you're facing it, walk down the corridor to your right for about twenty feet, and you come to an obvious roof-crack.
Protection
Good padding. The crux spits you on your back.
Routes in Femme Fatale Area
- 18The SupercrackV7Bouldering