Sobriety Test

A real mixture here. PItch 1 is face to awkward chimney, pitch 2 classic spooky Monument Basin face climbing, pitch 3 steep well protected crack, and pitch four slightly spooky face moves on "good" rock. The summit, if it still there, is rotten, and getting onto it is rather undignified. The free version of this route follows the aid version, except the first pitch, which takes a wide chimney/flare just right of the aid start.

Begin on right side of north face, under this chimney/flare.

1. Boulder up the awkward face to the chimney, which is easier than it appears. Up this to a ledge system on the west arete (5.10a, 50').

2. Move left, then up a short crack. Step awkwardly left onto a ledge, and traverse 15 feet left. Climb straight up (crux) to a niche under a protruding block, surmount the block on its right; belay (5.10c R, 50').

3. Up the obvious crack, passing a 5.11a bulge, to the shoulder (5.11a, 60').

4. Thin face gains a higher shoulder, and a two-bolt anchor (5.9 R, 20').

5. Climb to the rotten summit (5.7 R, 20').

Descent: Reverse the summit pitch to the bolt anchor. Rappel north 190' to the ground.

Gear: wires, two sets of Aliens, (include one Black (0.33") Alien), two sets of Friends and/or Camalots from two-inch to #5 Camalot. Include an extra #4 Camalot.