- Edit (TBD)
Description
Sitting high up the South fork of Oak Creek, a heavyweight bout awaits you; a 35 meter line finishing on bullet proof varnish through a 20 foot horizontal roof corner crack. This line just about has it all; starting with a technical tips crack (11-), continue up the varied corner to a stance below the roof. Put up your dukes and prepare for the championship round. The roof starts as perfect 4s and narrows to wide 3s culminating in a knockout punch to the lip. Do you have what it takes to hoist the belt? This would be a standout pitch at Indian Creek but as this is red rock, expect a bit of a hike (1.5 hours uphill if you know where you are going). Interested in thoughts on the grade. This area never sees sun; you will want a forecast of 65 and above in Blue Diamond to be comfortable up there.
Location
This route sits on a ledge above Pirate Wall on the descent gully for gift of the wind gods about 200 feet past the "slot" (aka cleaver crack).Follow the South Fork of Oak Creek up the descent for Mt Wilson. Eventually you will turn left toward the descent of Cactus Flower Tower and toward the approach to Pirate Wall where as the Mt Wilson descent will continue straight. You are aiming for a dark red bowl below some impressive tan corners. As you start up the slabs, this climb will be easily identifiable up and left. Cairns mostly mark the way. The easiest way to find this would probably be to do the GOTWG descent or follow a GPX track. GPS data in map.https://www.summitpost.org/cleaver-crack/394684 here is a write up to get you to cleaver crack. You will see the route before you reach cleaver crack.
Protection
70m for top ropping Minimum rack (safe but bumping) Singles .1-.4 and #5 Doubles .5-4 No #2s Bunch of alpines (12)
To sew it up, Quad 3s and 4s and a single 6 wouldn't go unused
Routes in The Lost World
- 1Put Up Your Dukes5.12-Trad