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Peak Mountain 3

Hocus Pocus

FA Herb Laeger & Mark Krebs (March 2014)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch #1:

Climb up to a subtle right facing corner, ascending over a few overlaps. The crux is encountered while passing the 3rd bolt (.10a) and moving over one of the overlaps. After the crux, the route eases up a bit. Pass two more bolts before reaching a chained 2-bolt belay. (140')

Pitch #2:

From the belay, move up and left to a bolt. From the bolts, head up to some parallel cracks above (a little runout but moderate). These cracks lead to a large ledge. From the right side of the ledge, continue by moving up and out right to pass an overhang. Once past the overhang, move slightly left and up to a chained 2-bolt near the top of the rock. Use this chained anchor to rappel the route.

Location

This is the first route encountered as you approach the rock. The start begins on the northeast toe of Spirit Rock, right of a vegetated crack.

Protection

  • (2) 60 meter ropes

  • Pro to #3 Camelots, a small selection of nuts

  • (6) Draws and (6) slings with carabiners