Freak on a Leash

Climb the moderate face to a bolt at the lip of a small roof. Make a super long reach to a one arm pull up. Lock off high, then pull through another one arm pull up to a lunge for a good hold. Climb 4 more small roofs to easy rock. The route overhangs about 8'. This would be easier (11+?) for a tall person. If you have shorter reach than me (5'10" finger tip to tip), it probably will not go free.

It is in the center of the roof band above

Balanced Rock Pillar

, just right of

3 AM Eternal

.

5 bolts, the first hanger is a grey chain link , and cams: 1 each to 4", 4" for the belay.