- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route tackles the obvious steep white headwall that “Black Fly Festival” climbs the right side of. Start in an easy but very fun chimney and make your way past two bolts until gaining a small ledge with a wide crack in the wall infront of you. (Optional #4 Camalot here to protect yourself while clipping the first bolt on the steeps). From here it’s a wild ride! A series of crimps gives way to a horizontal crack, move right in the crack to setup for a massive move to a jug. I have some seriously strange beta for this move that requires my feet being in the same horizontal as my hands and becoming completely sideways on the wall , ( the route was almost named “Beach Babe” for this strange pose on the wall but I had some doubts that this would be the “normal beta” ) Anyways, after the jugs there is another huge move to the lip and a wild mantle to the anchor. Don’t blow it or you’re going to catch some air! (Very safe fall )
Location
Start in the chimney with two bolts under the headwall.
Protection
5 bolts, optional #4 , anchor with lower off