Chouette

This is now the fourth route from the right. This route is great for morning sunshine. It also has fine granite and varied climbing making this a pleasant cruise. There is no drama on gear, no drama on lead. It is a good warm-up.

Start by climbing up the left side of a large flake via a wide crack. Gain a comfortable stance on top of the flake and then follow two bolts across the face via nice cracks to gain a left-facing corner that angles up to the right. Follow another crack that angles left at a break in the corner. Follow this crack to a steep face and then past two more bolts to the right to gain the anchor a new, distinct anchor with Mussy hooks separate from

Splash

. Rap 80' to the ground.

This route has a Dream Canyon-esque feel with its fine granite and mixed gear. I don't know why, but I like this route; maybe because it's nice and long, you can actually slot a nut or two, and it's not right in the thick of things. In French the name can be translated as 'splendid' or 'swell'. I concur.

A mixed bag: small rack; plan for the obvious wide crack at the start (nice big hex slots in there) and thin cracks (medium stoppers, smaller cams). 4 QDs for bolts. This now has a separate two bolt anchor with Mussy hooks, distinct from

Splash

.