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Peak Mountain 3

Pimpsqueak

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Description

This is, in my opinion, the finest boulder problem in Leavenworth. Lines don't get any more pure or aesthetic than this, and the movement ranges from technical, to gymnastic, to purely powerful as you progress from start to finish.

Start by climbing the arete on good holds to the flat edge at the beginning of the roof. Set your feet and fire your right hand out behind you to a good sloper on the arete. From here, a mix of squeezing, heel-hooking, and scumming will bring you to the crux throws at the end. Toss for the finishing jug then make a couple more delicate moves to top out.

Location

Far end of Mad Meadows.

Protection

A few pads and at least 1 attentive spotter. The fall from the crux seems much worse than it actually is; no matter how much it feels like it you won't land on the big rock below you.