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Peak Mountain 3

Stack Factor

FA Dan Durland and Steph Johnson, 1992
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

I am unsure on the grade and name, definitely at least a 5.12.

It follows the lip of a huge roof for about 100 feet. Stick clip the first and probably second bolt. It is steeply overhung and nearly sideways from start to finish. It has sustained hard climbing, but there are some good rests. There are often good holds, but the angle is very awkward. Your left arm will be dead after this one. It's like a 90 foot heel hooking bouldering nightmare....

The rock looks suspect in a few places, but I've never seen anything actually loose or break.

Because of the angle, there are some potentially extremely dangerous falls if you swing into the wall with a lot of rope out. Have a good belayer. It is not runout but could end badly. I would wear a helmet on this one even if you can cruise it.

Protection

I'm not sure on the count, but there are probably 9 or 10 bolts.


Routes in Stack Factor Wall


  1. 3
    Stack Factor
    5.12c
    Sport