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Peak Mountain 3

Kelly's Heroes

FA Chris Kelly, Bill Thiry, Larry DeAngelo
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Scramble to the right end of the main terrace to the rightmost gully. Pitch 1: A short 4th class pitch up a crispy crack gets you established on the crest of the rib.Pitch 2:  Start with a balancy step up and right to reach some good holds in the varnished rock.  Continue up and right, gaining a featured crack, and belay when convenient.Pitch 3: Follow the crack to a large ledge next to giant bush in an alcove.Pitch 4: Climb the squeeze chimney at the back of the alcove.  Continue up the corner above the chimney and exit left to a large belay ledge.Pitch 5: Climb the face above the belay ledge, then move right to class three terrain.Pitch 6: Scramble up to a headwall with a short class 5 crack.Above the crack, scramble up a short way until you can walk left into the main gully.  We rappelled the gully, but it looked like you could continue on class 3-4 terrain to the top of Solar Slab if you wanted.  After 2 rappels we exited the gully, going skier's right to the next gully to the west.  One more rappel reached easy ground leading back to the terrace.

Location

This route is on the far right (eastern) side of the Solar Slab Terrace.  To the right of Solar Slab are two ribs separated by two broken gullies.  This route goes up the right hand rib.

Protection

standard rack