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Peak Mountain 3

The Red Rock Canyon Wilderness Memorial Route

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Description

The Red Rock Canyon Wilderness Memorial Route (henceforth referred to as The RRCWMR) is a tribute to a bygone era: A time when no one waited in line to drive the Scenic Loop; a time when the only sounds you heard were canyon wrens, the wind, and the blood rushing through your veins (not sport bikes, helicopters, airplanes, drones, screaming babies, portable Bluetooth speakers or the low hum and creep of civilization); and a time when, perhaps, no one gave a shit if you placed a bolt here or there. The RRCWMR is also a fun, shady journey up the Refrigerator Wall just left of the classic, but much harder, Kisses Don’t Lie. I’ve been told the route was established ground-up, so expect some run-outs and committing climbing - but nothing overly dangerous - for the most part the gear is good and the climbing is varied and interesting, and, unlike most other routes on the wall, the cruxes are not slab moves. Enjoy!

P1 (5.10a, 100’): Begin by climbing the first 90’ of Amazing Grace until it is possible to step right out of the flake/corner to a belay ledge on the right.

P2 (5.11b, 105’): Step right and face climb upwards, ignoring bolts out right which belong to an incomplete, closed project, then execute a long fun-out on good holds. Continue up a series of left-facing flakes (lots of hollow rock here - tread lightly) before pulling over a small roof to a stance, then up to the steep headwall above. Finally, step left (crux) following a thin crack and edges to a belay at a good stance.

P3 (5.11b, 90’): Step right off the belay and climb a featured face aiming for the old, formerly off-route bolt of “Kisses Don’t Lie”. Clip this repurposed bolt with a long sling and head straight up a seam in nice rock to a roof. Pull the roof and climb a final face to a fixed ‘biner anchor.

Descend by rapping the route. A 60m rope should work but I have not personally verified this.

Location

Start on Amazing Grace which is on the left side of the main part of the Refrigerator Wall.

Protection

1x tiny to #1 Camalot Stoppers RP’s Draws and Slings