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Peak Mountain 3

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

FA Courtney Scales
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Description

Located at the end of the approach trail are two bolted climbs. This is the right line, which begins on an arete.

P1 (70 feet): Follow bolts up the arete and eventually move left and climb through a roof on great jugs to a two-bolt anchor/stance. (5.7)

P2 (70 feet): Follow bolts (~8ish) up the face to the top of the pedestal. Anchors exist on the steep face for a heinous hanging belay, or bring a finger-sized piece and equalize to a bolt on the nice, comfy ledge for a better belay experience. (5.9)

P3 (70 feet): Move belay right 30 feet (through small, chossy notch). Climb the beautiful face following great incut edges to a two-bolt anchor (best to set this as a TR for your 2nd). (5.10-)

Rappel the route.

It is possible to link pitches 1 and 2 with a 60m rope.

Location

The bolted route immediately to the left of the GBU is a

5.13ish roof project

that can be top-roped from the same first pitch anchor.

Protection

All bolts and anchors are in great condition, a finger-sized piece is optional for 2nd belay.