Serpent Crack

Boulder up a right-facing, zig-zagging flake on fingertips and small feet one or two moves before you can sink fingers and then a whole hand behind the same flake. Traverse up and right on a series of horizontals to a left-facing flake. Follow this up through an arching undercling to arrive at the crux: more fingertip flakes and small feet, past where the bolt used to be, before you can again sink fingers behind the flake. This section -- fingery edges and then a pancake flake in pale clean granite -- combines aspects of the Gunks' Arrow and CCK, only at a stiffer grade.

Find the right-facing finger flakes that bend left under more more flakes and cracks winding right and left again. A rectangular block set flush with the dirt path marks the start. The striking upper crack is easier to see from the left, as in back a ways from Castor and Pollux. It tops out on a flat ledge with a large pine tree. Its trunk is bent and slightly overhanging at the bottom. If you anchor off this tree, girth hitch it high to avoid drag from the rope running over the rounded ledge.

Many finger-size cams. The two runout sections are the easy traverse after the first flake, and the crux up high where the bolt was. You can get solid protection in the crack just after the crux.