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Peak Mountain 3

Magic Flute

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Description

P1 - 3 bolts, the 3rd is located just above the prominent rock scar and small (~18") "roof". We started farther right near a left-facing dihedral, then traversed left (after downclimbing) when the first bolt was finally spotted. Unsure of the direct start difficulty. 2nd bolt hanger was damaged from rockfall (presumably the scar directly above, between bolts 2/3, which altered the route). We traversed directly left from bolt 2 to a small arête/corner, then up a flake (gear), passing left of the third bolt (now skipped) to the belay. (5.7, ~160-190' depending on route taken)

P2 - 5 bolts, fairly straightforward (5.8, ~180')

P3 - gear, we trended left, then back right (other options exist). Bolted belay is directly above P2 belay (5.7, ~180')

P4 - gear, wander upwards, finding a gear belay when possible (5.6, ~180')

100' of 4th class to finish. Descent: walk climber's right, then down the gully and back to the base or road. First 3 pitches have bolted belays. It is possible to rappel with two ropes ' bring slings and rings, as needed, but the walk off is cruiser. Route may be shaded by mid-afternoon (Spring/Fall).

Location

Approach: park in pullout directly adjacent to the dome. Easy scramble up a rock gully, climber's left of dome ~ 10min. Located on the left side of the dome, fairly close to the approach gully.

Protection

Rack: draws, nuts, single set cams 0.4-2.5"

Buttonheads with SMC hangers for just about all the bolts.


Routes in Merlin Dome


  1. 1
    Magic Flute
    5.8
    Trad