- Edit (TBD)
Description
Classic face climbing on clean rock. Has a tendency to seep, but often dries out later in the day or if it hasn't rained in a few days. There is a bit of gear trickery to make this safe. Tape a black tricam all the way down the sling so it will be stiff leaving a small opening so a carabiner can be clipped, EVO tricams make this easier, thus the route name. If you are shorter than 5'9", you may have to clip a small stick to the tricam to gain a few inches of reach.Start below two overlaps. Move up the ramp to the thin face and traverse up and right to the first overlap. Get a good stance and finger sized piece here. Pull the overlap to another recessed stance. Use your taped evo to reach the next gear placement under the overlap. Push the tricam up into the hold an pull down and viola, bomber tricam placement. Make thin moves to get to the first bolt and pull the funky bulge, fun! Follow the ski track up and left, then back right to the huge horizontal that takes gear. Keep moving right on the horizontal until you can get to the next crack that goes up and left. Move out of the cracks and back onto the face past two more bolts. Two small finger sized pieces protect the last steep moves before the anchors. Move right on the ledge to the anchor shared with Cat and Mouse.
Location
Right in the middle of the First Wall. Look for the series of overlaps and the camouflaged hangers. One bolt low and two up high.
Protection
Double fingers to medium sized gear, #1 camalot, mandatory taped black tricam (read description). Single 60m gets you down.