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Peak Mountain 3

Cornered

FA Chris Weidner, solo; April 17-18, 2006
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Begin on the east side of the tower, beneath its highest point.

P1: 5.9 (100') Climb a V-slot just right of a large, left-facing corner, then follow cracks and corners for 100 feet to a small, triangular belay ledge in a wide stem box. The belay takes 2" to 3.5" cams.

P2: 5.10- C1 (105') Jam an angling hand crack up and left into a short, sandy squeeze chimney. Exit left and tiptoe into a varnished, left-facing corner. Ascend the corner to a fixed anchor on a spacious belay ledge at the notch.

P3: 5.5 C1 (55') Stem between the rim rock and the tower in a spectacular position. Place gear in a horizontal slot, then aid up the overhanging wall on six bolts and pins. Scramble to the summit with the aid of a two-pin anchor.

Descent: Downclimb from the summit to the two-pin anchor. Rappel 45 feet to the fixed anchor at the spacious belay ledge. From here, rappel 150 feet to the ground.

Location

From the Sandy Beach pullout, cross the road then ascend dirt and talus slopes to the east side of the tower (45 minutes).

Protection

1ea: small-medium nuts, #5 Camalot

2ea: big nuts, #0-#2 Metolius, #3, #4 Camalots

3ea: #.5-#2 Camalots


Routes in The Matador


  1. 1
    Cornered
    5.10-
    Trad · Aid