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Peak Mountain 3

‘Narrow Gully’

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Description

Taco Sauce is a narrow snow, ice, and easy rock couloir that splits a triangular buttress on the far left of Baldy Bowl, directly left of Dostie's Dare. It is critical that one climb this route when temps are very low and the ground is stable. I was soloing it a handful of years ago when the crux pitch dumped a ton of rocks onto me. I was saved when one of my ice tool tethers (not rated to hold anything) held onto me as I fell about a body length or so. My left arm is covered in thin scars from that day. One of the scarier moments I've had climbing. Would've been a much different outcome had both tools blown.

Route starts out as sorta steep typical Baldy Bowl snow, then narrows and steepens up into the buttress. Continues up and gets steeper up an iced up crappy rock step. Step continues for 30ft or so and eases up onto the plateau-ish area above the Bowl.

Note that 1,000ft includes snow climbing. Actual technical section is about 300ft up the center of the eastern 'Triangle Buttress'.

Location

Route is up the left side of the bowl, striaght up the middle of the 'Triangle Buttress'. Descent is via whatever you like, since it tops out atop the Bowl.

Protection

Light rack with stubbies, handful of nuts skipping sizes, and small cams (optional).