- Edit (TBD)
Description
Accidental FA. We were looking for Butt Hurt (5.12+) and saw the obvious hand crack just to the left of Butt Hurt. Assuming that was the route and the crux was the roof, we just went for it. Turns out, it's not Butt Hurt, but it is a neat little hand crack with some cool roof moves. Bring your fists!Shares a finish with Butt Hurt. Beware of extreme rope drag (we got our rope stuck the first time) through the roof. Build an anchor in the crack above the roof. Rap the Bubble Butt Dome Rap Anchors. If you're going to spend the effort to hike around to Butt Hurt, might as well get in as many pitches as possible!
Location
Do the Bubble Butt Dome approach, hiking through the wash and up the cow trails to the right of the formation. Once you reach Bubble Butt Dome hike left around the backside of the formation and squeeze under a massive boulder. We left a few cairns. Carefully rock hop across the boulders and to the start of Butt Hurt and Ass Pain!
Protection
Single .3-.5, #5 doubles to #4. Some may want an extra 3 or 4 if not comfy at the grade. Belay either just over the roof to avoid impossible rope drag or creatively keep the rope out of the crack and hope for the best.