NW Buttress

The first and easiest route on Shark's Nose is best approached from the northwest (Shadow Lake), but with a little more work can be approached from Lonesome Lake (an ice axe may be needed in early season). The route is not visible when approaching from the east, which makes it tricker to find from that direction.

Your first goal is to reach the col between the Shark's Nose and Overhanging Tower. Below this col on the west side, find the higher of two 4th class ramps which slant across the NW face (if approaching from the west, you obviously do not have to go all the way to the col!). Climb a pitch up this ramp, then continue 5th class along the same ramp until a vertical crack going through a steep section is reached. Climb this crack (crux) to an easy slab back left. From here climb up and right, across a ridge to reach the summit. Rappel the route (preferably with 2 ropes).

Kelsey warns about following off-route pitons near the top of the ramp which lead up a 5.9 crack.

Rappel the route (preferably with 2 ropes).

Light rack