Secret Weapon

Climb the low-angled groove to the U-shaped roof. Pull the small roof and climb the face to the anchors. Be careful of the holds near the top. They look great, but one pulled off in my hands at the anchor, causing me to suggest a new rating of 5.9+, instead of the former 5.9. Great climbing, though.

At the right end of the Wall of the Unclimbables, this climb starts below the low-angled right-leaning groove below and the bright green face above.

Gear to 1", 2-bolt anchor. Rap or lower.