- Edit (TBD)
Description
The South Face of
The Spy
is steep and featured and therefore inviting. There are a couple of other possible lines here, but the protection and rock quality on those are suspect. This route is the most obvious weakness to the right of the big tree and the bird poop stains.... Named for one of the most famous spies of all time, I was really hoping 007 would be 5.7, and luckily enough that feels about right. This has most likely been climbed before, if not, it should get climbed some more.... The middle section has some awkward moves and a little suspect rock, but if you have a rope, there is tons of good gear. When you approach the lip, the rock quality is as good as anywhere in the Flatirons, and you won't want it to end. The crack gains the
East Ridge
right before its crux bulge. You can belay here and do one pitch to the top of
The Spy
.
Location
This is the crack on the South Face of
The Spy
. It starts in the gully in-between
The Spy
and the
First Flatironette
.
This may be the same crack as the route
Spy Vs. Spy
but on the opposite side of the formation. You can see daylight through the crack in a few places....
There are a couple ways to get to the start:
- Start up
East Ridge
till the point you have to step up the little headwall, but instead walk up the gully on the left.
- Climb any route up the
First Flatironette
. When you step off the top, head North across the gully.
Protection
Light standard rack.