Little Finger Direct

History: For some time the route known as "Bill's Route" ("4 bolts on a face to the right of Little Finger") has been mistaken for Little Finger Direct ["LFD"] , even though route descriptions for LFD clearly state that the climb starts only 10-15 ft right of base of Little Finger. (See COMMENT below from the leader of the FA.) The issue, I guess, is that protection is non-existent for well over 100 ft.

Indeed, I can't say that I led this climb...5.7+ X is "a bit above my pay grade", but did climb it about 10-12 years ago by rigging a 2-rope top rope from one of the anchors on Little Finger and then using a directional off (I think) a wire stopper in one of the thin cracks about 140-160 ft up. The climbing moves are superb and if the occasion presents itself (i.e. you're not "hogging" the anchor on LF) this is a reasonable way to do this "very 'X' route"

I spoke with Jim Kolcotronis (of the FA party of Little Finger itself) the weekend after the FA of Little Finger and the description he gave me at that time was that the 5.7 3rd pitch crack was the route of FA, and thus the 5.5 "exit to the right" was added later. (by whom ?)

START: about 10-15 ft right of little finger, on sort of a "mini butress" about 20(?) feet high.

Tom Rosecrans continues: ...climb[ed] the face about 10' right of Little Finger, unprotected except for a poor upside down pin at about half height, belaying in the left facing corner just right of LF. Here the idea of a totally separate line failed and it was back to LF to just below the roof with P-3 taking the classic finger crack above. 

P1- Climb the unprotected face 10 ft right of Little Finger. 5.7 to 5.7+ X 

P2- Continue up reaching thin cracks that take small wires (or pitons !) but when the climbing thins out, work left to the belay below the base of the P3 5.7 crack.

P3- Climb over the small overhang, then up the fine crack (this is the normal P3 of the "Direct variation" to LF.)   Belay on a sloping slab with a fine crack that accepts small TCUs and/or little-finger-sized-wire-nuts.

DESCENT- The best descent is to climb up 20-25 ft and slightly left (piton in a 2-3 ft high right-facing flake) then traverse 50-70 ft to the double bolt anchor on Screaming Meanie and rap that route with 2 ropes.

It is also possible to move right and rap the gully to the right, but there is lose rock there.

Start to the right of Little Finger (about 10 feet).

draws & trad gear