Sweaty & Guilty

Sweaty & Guilty. Guilty of:

Being squeezed in between two superior routes (Serf and Naysayer) and thus insulting those climbsHaving poorly located boltsBeing in desperate need of a proper cleaningI'm posting this up mainly to warn people that this route, in its current state, is dangerous. Until it is cleaned of loose holds, flakes, and blocks, it should not be climbed. Even then, consider the third and fourth bolts which are placed very close to (within inches of) the edge of small aretes - these could shear away the rock in these spots (I've seen it happen).

The climbing itself isn't bad, but the first half of the route may leave you constantly wondering if holds on the neighboring routes are "on". The line becomes more independent in its upper half, but unfortunately the rock quality also deteriorates. Personally, I think this thing should be removed but, at the very least, the job should be finished with some cleaning and some adjustments to the bolting.

PS: I left the massive resting flake formerly found just after the lone permadraw at the bottom of the climb in case you want to glue it back on. Sorry it's in two pieces but at least my belayer survived.

A top rope, a helmet, and a crowbar.